Infragravity wave height dependency on short wave parameters – observations on the east coast of South Korea

نویسندگان

چکیده

Infragravity waves (IGWs) that have lower wave frequencies than short (SWs) can cause significant impacts on coastal processes, such as beach erosion, when their amplitude increases toward the shore, specifically under energetic conditions. Therefore, it is important to precisely predict IGW shoaling based SW conditions for scientific and engineering purposes. In this study, of IGWs was observed at three different sites along east coast South Korea continuous observations various water depths. The nearshore dominant over SWs, which likely due energy transfer between SWs IGWs. Two types parameters were employed examine correlations with IGWs, linear dependences both types. However, determination coefficient showed opposite pattern two types, increased decreasing depth flux. comparison flux could be a preferred parameter type represent height in these calculations, one formula developed depth-dependent proportional coefficients used. discrepancy also magnitude coefficients, indicating higher sandy beaches rocky seabed. assumed seabed may an factor process shoaling, but further evidence needed.

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ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Frontiers in Marine Science

سال: 2023

ISSN: ['2296-7745']

DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2023.1194472